Music Review: Icelandic Duo Kiasmos, Live in San Francisco

Copyright Photo - Big and Small Travel
Kiasmos, from left Faroe Islands native Janus Rasmussen and Ólafur Arnalds in the spotlight at Mezzanine in San Francisco, California.

Evoking the otherworldly homelands of its creators, this is electronic music for dreamers and dancers alike. Kiasmos comprises Icelandic multi-instrumentalist and award-winning composer Ólafur Arnalds and Faroe Islands native Janus Rasmussen. The duo makes atmospheric electronic with flourishes of Intelligent Dance Music (IDM), ambient, house, and pop.

Ring Road
Ring Road in Iceland between Vik and Jokulsarlon. Desolate and majestic in its emptiness and vastness.

Their set began with lush strings snaking through ambient drones, guiding us all into a head-nodding hypnosis. My mind went straight to our time in Iceland, especially driving along the Ring Road, an entrancing experience of its own, passing through barren land, gushing waterfalls, and towering glaciers. Soon enough the bass kicked in, the beats sped up, and the crowd got lost in the urge to dance.

Instrumentally dense (the lulling strings really set Kiasmos apart from other likeminded electronic music makers) and infectiously thumping, this is music meant to seduce both mind and body.

Be sure to check out Kiasmos’ latest EP, Swept!

Kiasmos, Swept

If you’re curious, check out more of our impressions of Iceland.


Top 6 Iceland Attractions

Jökulsárlón, Big and Small Travel at the edge of the glacial lagoon off the Ring Road.
Jökulsárlón, Big and Small Travel at the edge of the glacial lagoon off the Ring Road.

Whether or not you’re facing the woozy effects of jetlag, landing in Iceland still feels like landing in another world—the raw beauty is simply stunning. This is an island of active volcanoes, glacial lagoons, intense rainbows, resplendent fog, towering mountains, and… perhaps even a troll or two. This was the first stop for my wife and I during our two-month honeymoon and it remains a highlight—every place else seems second-rate in comparison; its unblemished beauty is unmatched.

Iceland is an underpopulated island in an overpopulated world. Here, nature is truly king. And as of late 2015, almost every natural attraction in the country is free of charge. There is rumor, however, that the government may start implementing entrance fees, so I recommend making the trip there soon. When you do, here are six must-see sites to hit. Most of these attractions are along the Golden Circle, a popular tourist route from Reykjavik, except for my #1 recommended spot, Jökulsárlón, a place well-worth the extra mileage.

1. Jökulsárlón

Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon is actually one of the younger sites on the island; it’s only about 80 years old. The glacial lagoon (or Jökulsárlón in Icelandic) started to form in the early 20th century due to warming temperatures. A lake developed after the glacier started receding from the Atlantic Ocean. The lake continues to grow as the glaciers melt, creating quite a breathtaking phenomenon. The icebergs glimmer and exude a powder-blue color, unmistakable even from the warmth of your car. It almost feels fake, like a movie set made of fantastical ice. In fact, Jökulsárlón has been the backdrop for a few films, including Batman Begins and Die Another Day. I recommend avoiding the lagoon boat tours and just wandering along the shore. It is possible to escape the crowds and find a spot to gaze at the beauty of the lagoon. You’ll want to stare at this thing for a while, trust me. I was lucky enough to get up and touch the ice and even partially stand on some of it, before it eventually floats away and melts into the sea.

2. Vik’s Black Sand Beach

The black sand beach of Vik is possibly one of the 10 most beautiful, non-tropical beaches on Earth. Both sides of the beach are accessible by car, either from downtown Vik or near Reynisdrangar. The long stretch of volcanic beach is enhanced by a cliff side that resembles a giant church organ. Meanwhile, the large rock formations protruding out of the sea at Reynisdrangar are shrouded in troll legends and Icelandic myths. In the summer months, you may even be able to spot some puffins here. Unfortunately, we just missed them, as they migrated back to life on the sea two weeks before our arrival. The area of Vik in general has an eerie sort of mystique to it, as it lies in the shadows of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier and Katla, an active volcano that could erupt at any moment.

3. Gullfoss

This is a waterfall that makes Niagara seem like a fake Disney attraction. Gulfoss, meaning “Golden Falls,” is spectacular and massive. Here, you will be dazzled by a vivid rainbow (or two) on sunny days, as the mist creates a wall of drizzle. The waterfall has been a national attraction since 1875 and was almost lost to foreign investors, who wanted to use it for electricity. But because of lack of funds, it remains an unblemished spectacle.

4. Geysir

Geysir is the gusher (as it literally means in Icelandic) in which all other geysers are named. Just east of Reykjavik and very close to Gulfoss, this is another one of the hot spots along the Golden Circle. On average, you will only have to wait about 5-10 minutes for the Strokkur geysir to shoot water up to about 98 feet in the air. We hung around the area and watched it spurt at least 5-7 times—it doesn’t get old. This is a cool area to wander around and see all the geothermal activity bubbling at your toes.

Blue Lagoon, located in a lava field in Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, southwestern Iceland.
Blue Lagoon, located in a lava field in Grindavík on the Reykjanes Peninsula, southwestern Iceland.

5. Blue Lagoon

Located relatively close to Keflavik Airport, the main Reykjavik hub, the Blue Lagoon is considered one of the 25 wonders of the world. The lava field around the Blue Lagoon (which reminded us a bit of Craters of the Moon in Idaho) is created from the geothermic craters of Eldvorp, which provides water for the lagoon. The Blue Lagoon is a mostly natural attraction, built up to accommodate large groups, with a swim-up bar and other modern conveniences.

The average water temperature is around 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and suitable even on a blustery day. Some of the simpler pleasures came from roaming around the vast lagoon and finding various hot spots. There’s also an area to scoop out some silica-based mud to rub on your face for a quick spa treatment. The small waterfall, tucked in the corner of the lagoon, is a real sweet surprise—duck underneath it to get a powerful water-driven shoulder and back massage. I recommend getting there right when the Lagoon opens. The crowds start to stream in around 10-11am.

Reykjadalur Hike, located roughly 35 miles from Reykjavik, the area of Reykjadalur (meaning "hot river") .
Reykjadalur Hike, located roughly 35 miles from Reykjavik, the area of Reykjadalur (meaning “hot river”) .

6. Reykjadalur Hike

Located roughly 35 miles from Reykjavik, the area of Reykjadalur (meaning “hot river”) is perfect for a moderate-level hike, which ends at a natural hot spring (which is free!). This hike feels like classic Iceland, you’ll come across beautiful vistas, walk through patches of fog, and even see the earth bubbling at your feet. It takes about an hour to get to the spot set aside for soaking in the hot spring, but it is definitely worth it. Hopefully, you’ll have better weather than we did—we got stuck in a storm in the middle of the hike and came back completely drenched! Be prepared to get wet and muddy—bring good shoes, a swimsuit, and a towel.

As of Fall/Winter 2015, all of these natural attractions (except for the Blue Lagoon) were free of charge. There is rumor, however, that the government may start implementing entrance fees, so I recommend making the trip there soon. Bon voyage and happy travels!

Check out the wonderful Ever in Transit travel blog for more pictures from these Top 6 Iceland attractions listed above too.

European Yoga Adventures: Yoga Shala Reykjavik, Iceland

Handstand at Jokulsarlon, South Iceland
Handstand at Jokulsarlon, South Iceland

Travel is the best way to get out of your comfort zone, and yoga is the best way to get out of your head. So, why not combine the two? Follow my journeys as I attempt to do yoga across Europe. I’ll be getting lost in non-English classes, discovering new forms and philosophies, and hopefully offering some useful tips and valuable insights along the way. First stop: Iceland!


With my “nomad mat” in tow, I set off for my first yoga class in which I would understood absolutely nothing. Driving up to Yoga Shala Reykjavik means coming across a rather faceless windowed office building, something straight out of any American suburb. I saw no signs for the shala, and so simply followed a few mat-toting girls up the stairs. Inside, the place was much more inviting, with a rainbow of beanbags and a shrine of various yoga books and knick-knacks.

Photo Credit: Yoga Shala Reykjavik
Photo Credit: Yoga Shala Reykjavik

Still fighting jet lag and a lack of greens in the diet (fresh produce is a rare commodity in Iceland), I was feeling a little rundown, hesitant, and a bit nervous to enter the class, but I felt at ease upon meeting the sweet girl at the front desk (who I would in minutes learn was also the teacher), who greeted me in crystal-clear English and told me my first class was free (yay!). I still wasn’t sure what language I would be hearing for the next 90 minutes, but this was also an Ashtanga class, a form of yoga I was pretty familiar with, so I went in with head held high.

Post-Class Glow

I quickly realized this class was filled with all Reykjavik residents. The teacher then entered, and the Icelandic soon began. It seemed everyone knew what the hell she was talking about…

Eventually, though, the choppy consonant-driven language seemed to meld gracefully with Sanskrit. My ears started to excitedly perk up when hearing “asana,” and I slowly started to recognize the 3-2-1 countdowns. This was exhilarating in itself, even though I still felt like a beginner, lifting my head and peeking around, getting scared when we turned to the back (which meant I was now in the front!).

Love for Yoga Journal on the bathroom floor...
Love for Yoga Journal on the bathroom floor…

I certainly wasn’t letting my mind go, though; in fact, I kept thinking about thinking too much. But once I started getting more comfortable—and remembering that everyone is really just focused on their own practice, not on dumb old me—the more I took in the calming energy of the class. I noticed a great focus on deep and detoxifying breathing, something I don’t get enough of in my classes at home in San Francisco, which tend to be way more rigorous. The breathing among this small group overtook and warmed the room. It felt like a natural force much bigger than the sum of its parts; it felt very Icelandic in a way—this small room, like the island it rested upon, could create some real fire and noise.

Speaking of noise, I only realized the lack of music about an hour into the class—a stark difference from the techno-blasting class of home. I thought no music would drive me mad, but I didn’t even notice it. It was refreshing, actually, to hear nothing but syllables, inhales, exhales, and the occasional squeak of a mat. Yoga is not about comprehending the external anyway—realizing this can be pretty liberating.

Next up: Paris, France!

Iceland Spotlight: Aurora Reykjavik Northern Lights Center

Stunning yet fake Aurora Borealis (Northern LIghts) pic taken with some help from the Aurora Reykjavik Center.
Stunning (yet fake!) pic taken with some help from the Aurora Reykjavik Center.

Iceland may be best known for its glaciers, volcanoes, and, lagoons (and possibly even elves and trolls, too!), but it’s also a prime spot to witness one truly spectacular phenomenon: the Northern Lights, aka Aurora Borealis.

The jaw-dropping display is not always visible to the naked eye, though, so Aurora Reykjavik: The Northern Lights Center, a museum located in the city’s old harbor area, is your next best bet. Here, the simple but fascinating exhibits help explain this otherworldly effect—plus you get free organic tea and coffee!

Check out videos from Big & Small in Iceland, including waterfalls, glaciers, geysers, and a black sand beach! 

The Center is divided into sections, which include legends around the Northern Lights, interactive and educational displays, visibility forecasting, and a how-to photography lesson.

Handstand Steph outside of Aurora Reykjavik.
Handstand Steph outside of Aurora Reykjavik.

The first part of the Center introduces you to the various myths surrounding the Northern Lights, from Norway to Russia. It makes you realize how humans so often try to explain the unknown in a way that reflects on their own insecurities and emotional frustrations (hint: a lot of the myths revolve around unfaithful lovers and women being seduced).

After the exhibits, you’re invited to sit back and take in a continuously running panoramic film of marvelous auroral displays. Be prepared to fall into an enchanting trance. 

Aurora Center displays describing how solar storms and the sun play into creating the spectacular northern lights.
Aurora Center displays describing how solar storms and the sun play into creating the spectacular northern lights.

Outside of the free coffee and tea (of course!), one of the best features at Aurora Reykjavik is saved for the end. Here, you can learn how to adjust your camera’s settings to successfully photograph the Northern Lights. We especially enjoyed the specially equipped “photo booth,” where you can attempt to try your hand at capturing the auroras. Frankly, we learned some new techniques on how to use our new digital camera with Aurora Reykjavik’s tips. Thanks, guys!

This is a must-do in Reykjavik. Go visit for some truly fascinating science and mind-blowing visuals.

Big at Jokulsarlon


Big and Small Travel have arrived in Iceland. We have picked the best pictures for our Iceland PhotoPhiles edition. An Iceland favorites post of specific attractions is forthcoming as well.

Enjoy the pics of this volcanic wonder known as Iceland. Also, check out the new  Big and Small Travel YouTube, say hello and leave your comments/feedback. Takk!

One of the 25 wonders of the world is the Blue Lagoon in Iceland.
One of the “25 Wonders of the World” is the geothermal hot springs of the Blue Lagoon.
Blue Lagoon
Blue Lagoon
Skijor Falls, Iceland
Skógafoss is a waterfall situated on the Skógá River in the south of Iceland at the cliffs of the former coastline.
Jökulsárlón - Glacial Lagoon
Jökulsárlón: The glacier lagoon is close to highway number one, 230 miles east from Reykjavík. This lagoon is a fairly recent one, about 80 years old, the result of a warming climate. The surface is at sea level and sea water flows into the lagoon at high tide.
 Jokulsarlon, Iceland.
Jokulsarlon, Iceland.
Handstand Steph on the Ring Road in South Iceland.
Black Sand Beach in Vik, Iceland.
Þingvellir is the national shrine of Iceland. It is, for one, a key location in Icelandic history as the oldest existing parliament in the world, and the joining of European/Asian and North American tectonic plate.
Þingvellir is the national shrine of Iceland. Wow! A key location in Icelandic history as the oldest existing parliament in the world, and the joining of European/Asian and North American tectonic plates. Double wow!
South Iceland near Vik.
Cool fog off the Ring Road in South Iceland between Vik and Jökulsárlón.
Gulfoss Waterfall, Iceland
Gulfoss Waterfall, a key attraction in the Golden Circle route of Iceland.